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KV-1 Model 1941 w/ Simplified Welded Turret (October 1941 to January 1942)

This sub-variant is a simple conversion by cross-kitting Trumpeter kit #00357 Russian KV-1 's Ekhranami with kit #00358  Russia KV-1 Model 1942 Simplified Turret Tank.  Depending on the particular vehicle you are modeling, you may need to modify the bolt configuration on the engine compartment and transmission compartment roof plates.

Start with kit #00357.

In Step 1 of the kit instructions, DO NOT open up the holes in the lower hull sides (parts B1 and B2), but DO open up the round hole and rectangular slot immediately below the top edge of the hull sides as indicated in the instructions for kit #00358.  DO NOT open up the forward holes near the centers of the fenders (parts C1 and C14) but DO open up the rear-most holes on part C14 as indicated in the instructions.  You should also fill the holes on the number 7 and 8 fender positions.  DO NOT open up the holes in the turret shell.  Follow the instructions to open up the holes in the hull top (part A27).  Additionally, open up the three holes forward of the turret ring.

In step 2, omit part M1.

In step 3, omit part M3.  Omit the two rearmost lifting eyes from the transmission compartment roof plate (part C6) and fill their locating holes.  The kit provides four lifting eyes on the transmission compartment roof plate but there should be only two.

Add the chevron-shaped armor fillet from kit #00358 (part F2) to the hull top forward of the turret ring.

Follow step 4 of the instructions, check your references to determine the type of road wheels fitted to the vehicle you are modeling.  All-steel road wheels were introduced in October and became increasingly common through November until they were almost universally fitted to new production vehicles appearing in December.  Vehicles fitted with all-steel wheels typically carried the later pattern suspension swing arms provided in kit #00358, whereas those with two-part resilient wheels carried the swing arms provided in kit #00357, though there were certainly exceptions to this rule of thumb.  Choose the appropriate swing arms for the vehicle you are modeling.

Add two armored strips to the forward corners of the engine compartment roof plate using strips of 2mm x 2mm square section styrene, using the upper drawing on page 101 of KV - Technical History & Variants as a guide.

Check your references for the vehicle you are modeling since the bolt configuration on the engine compartment and transmission compartment roof plates was modified in late October/early November, eliminating every third bolt and leaving eight bolts in four pairs of two.  It is a simple matter to carefully carve away the surplus bolts using the drawings on page 78 (Figure 20) and page 85 of KV - Technical History and Variants.  Take care to modify the bolts along both sides of the radiator intake screens as well.

In step 5, choose the appropriate suspension swing arms from kit #00357 or kit #00358 as discussed above.

The nose plate (part C5) features 11 filled bolt holes across each face.  In July, the number was reduced to 8 equally spaced bolts.  For an October/November 1941 vehicle, yu should sand away the molded-on detail and either recreate the bolt holes by drilling shallow holes and filling them with putty, or leave the plate smooth since on many vehicles, the holes were almost impossible to see.  In December, the bolts were eliminated altogether, leaving a smooth plate.

In step 6, omit the hull ehkrany (parts N7, N8, N9 and N11).

Instead of the hull ehkrany, fit the applique armor parts from kit #00358 (parts F29 and F30).

In step 7, DO NOT open up the hole in the engine access hatch (part C2) unless you intend modeling a January 1942 production example.  The inspection port (part A18) was introduced at the beginning of 1942. 

Omit the hull ehkrany (parts N5, N6, N10 and N11).

In step 8, assemble the bow machine gun as directed.

As noted above for steps 4 and 5, check your references to determine the type of road wheels and return rollers carried by the vehicle you are modeling since all-steel road wheels and return rollers were introduced in October and became increasingly common through November until they were almost universally fitted to new production vehicles appearing in December.  For a vehicle with the earlier cast steel two-part wheels and rubber rimmed return rollers, use the parts from kit #00357.  For a vehicle with all-steel road wheels and return rollers, use the parts from kit #00358.

The number of retaining bolts on the covers over the drove sprocket hubs was reduced progressively from 16 to 12 and then to 8 in August, so an October 1941 vehicle should have 8 bolts.  To represent the 8-bolt covers, modify the covers from kit #00357 by removing every second bolt, or use the covers from kit #00358.

In step 9, assemble the tracks as directed.

Follow steps 10 and 11 of the instructions.

Follow step 12 of the instructions, though I recommend leaving the tracks off the model until after initial painting.

In step 13, omit the cross-cut saw and its bracket (part M6).

Skip step 14, since you will use the turret and gun from kit #00358.  More on this below.

In step 15, construct the two cables as directed.

In step 16, omit the cylindrical stowage tube from the right-hand fender (parts M12, 14 and M15).  The tube was eliminated at the end of June.

Fit two of the stowage boxes (parts D20) to the number 9 and 10 positions.  The longer applique armor strips prevented stowage boxes being fitted on the number 7 and 8 positions.  Some vehicles in November/December 1941 even lacked stowage boxes altogether, so check your references for the vehicle you are modeling.

In step 17, attach the tow cables, though again you may wish to delay this step until after initial painting.  See below for the turret assembly details.

Switch to kit #00358.

In the instruction sheet, above step 1, DO NOT open up the holes in the sides of the turret shell.  However, DO open up the two holes in the floor of the turret bustle on part P6.

Now skip to step 11.

Modify the turret roof by carefully removing the two rear-facing episcopes and filling their locating holes.  Divert momentarily from the prescribed assembly sequence, and attach the rear-facing episcope covers (parts P5) further aft, so that their rearmost corners touch the edge of the turret roof plate (NOT the top edge of the turret sides).  See the drawing on page 315 of KV - Technical History and Variants for guidance.  Locate the episcopes themselves inside the covers. Note that the spacing and angle of the covers and episcopes is unchanged.

Omit the gunner's sight (parts F17 and F20) and instead use parts F18 and A20 (two of each part are provided in the kit).

DO NOT add the reinforcing fillet (part P2) beneath the turret bustle.  This was only fitted to early turrets without the interlocked joints.  The kit turret represents the revised design with interlocked joints, introduced in October 1941.

Attach the side-facing episcope covers and assemble the rear-facing machine gun (parts D11, D12 and D2) as indicated.

You may wish to replace the grab handles on the turret sides (parts D15) with brass wire, and fill their locating slots.

Fill the socket in the center of the turret hatch (part D19).  KV-1 turret hatches did not include the socket, though KV-2 turret hatches did.

By following these steps along with the kit instructions, you will create an accurate representation of a KV-1 Model 1941 manufactured at ChKZ between October 1941 and January 1942.
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